Emefa Cole (born 1979)
Oxidised sterling silver with applied gold leaf, designed and made by Emefa Cole using the lost-wax technique. Length of bezel 3.2 cm. Marked: Emefa Cole, London.View Maker's Profile
Emefa Cole, a bold and experimental jeweller, uses the ancient technique of lost wax casting to realise compelling sculptural designs such as the ‘Caldera’ ring, modelled on the void created by a volcanic eruption. Sensuous, considered, heavy on the hand, it exploits the contrast between the rugged gold interior of the bezel and the flawless oxidized silver surface of the band.
Cole often begins with a sketch drawing but ultimately relies on the feel of the wax in her hand to tell her when the carved model is complete; “I have learned to think more as a metalsmith – even when I’m only holding wax I have to think like a jeweller or a goldsmith.” Her dedication to learning her craft gives her jewels a consistent integrity; she has studied the traditional goldsmithing techniques of the Ashanti kingdom with the royal goldsmith to the Asantehene. Cole’s jewellery is deeply personal, embodying her long-held interest in landscape and geological processes. The ‘Caldera’ ring references erosion, the passing of time, the elemental energy of volcanoes and the existence of unseen activity beneath our feet. Imbued with innovation and audacity, it represents Cole’s singular skill.
For more on Emefa, her inspiration and her experience with the leading goldsmith to the Asantehene see here.
For an interview with Emefa in her workshop see here.
For the significance of this ring within her career see here.
You can see Cole’s ‘Caldera’ ring in the context of other acquisitions made for the Goldsmiths’ Company Collection in 2020-2021 here.
It also features in a recent publication on rings in the Goldsmiths’ Company Collection by Frances Parton and Dora Thornton available to buy here.
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