Andrew Lamb (born 1978)

Andrew Lamb’s manipulation of wires in precious metal to create rippling, densely-woven textures is exemplified in this piece. The interlaced image has been made up from 1500 bi-metal wire “pixels” as a mass of tiny loops, with each wire lasered into place. The ‘Lenticular’ brooch draws on the visual effects of Optical Art, especially Bridget Riley’s colourful Nataraja paintings. As the brooch is worn, the optical patterns change as light moves over the surface, appearing solid one moment and disappearing from view the next, like the light glinting over a shoal of fish as they change direction in the sea. There is an element of surprise and discovery. “It is a long process” he explains, “and even then, only at the final stage – when someone tries it on – will you find out if a piece has really worked.”

Brooches are particularly suitable for demonstrating his sophisticated and meticulous technique. This is one of three brooches by him in the Collection, each of which is a small work of wearable sculpture. Andrew Lamb is currently the specialist Jewellery Adviser on the Goldsmiths’ Company’s Contemporary Craft Committee.

DT