Andrew Lamb

'Lenticular' brooch

2013

18 carat red, green, yellow and white golds with 24 carat platinum, palladium and oxidised silver.

Andrew Lamb’s manipulation of wires in precious metal to create rippling, densely-woven textures is exemplified beautifully in this piece. He commented in 2014 that “For a number of years I have been using precious gold and silver wires in my jewellery. I create my pieces by layering, and positioning these ‘threads’ to create rippling textures and colour variations, playfully drawing in the viewer and creating a moment of surprise. I am influenced by illusion and the mesmerising visual effects of optical art and the Lenticular brooch is inspired by Bridget Riley’s colourful Nataraja paintings.” His optical patterns change as light moves over the surface, appearing solid one moment and disappearing from view the next, like the light glinting over a shoal of fish as they change direction in the sea. “It is a long process” he explains, “and even then, only at the final stage – when someone tries it on – will you find out if a piece has really worked.” Brooches, which move on the wearer’s body, are particularly suitable for demonstrating his sophisticated and meticulous technique.

The creation of patterns and the build-up of individual elements is similarly significant to the work of early-career maker Caitlin Hegney, who has produced a series of brooches for the Goldsmiths’ Centre’s Shine 2020.