Katerina Perez Selects
With over 12 years of expertise in the industry, global jewellery expert Katerina Perez’s name is often on many contemporary jewellery enthusiasts’ minds.
Launching her huge online platform in 2013, she quickly catapulted discussions about fine jewellery into the mainstream. As a top Instagram influencer with over 300,000 followers, many seek out Katerina’s profile for the latest daily jewellery insights and trends.
See her selection of Goldsmiths’ Fair 2021 makers below.
‘Systematic Sonata’ ring by Gearry Suen
Jewels with a story or inspiration behind them are often the ones I am drawn to. In the case of this ‘Systemic Sonata’ ring by Chinese-born designer, Gearry Suen, the concept is inspired by the novel “Do Androids Dream of Electronic Sheep?” which is a story of awakening in a post-apocalyptic world. What at first glance appears to be a hyper-feminine floral creation is drawing on elements of sci-fi, novel technologies and even themes of artificial intelligence. There’s also an interesting use of materials here too, including hand-carved sandalwood, silver, 18k gold, yellow and white diamonds, red spinels, green and blue sapphires, garnets, yellow zircon and Paraiba tourmalines.
Koi necklace by Ingo Henn
Coloured gemstones are always the focus of Ingo Henn’s work, which has long been on my radar for its energy, creativity and sheer craftsmanship. This Koi necklace is set with a yellow beryl of 50.67 carats that’s hand-carved to give the impression of a koi carp emerging from a solid, faceted gemstone. What a feat of design and imagination! The beryl is contained within a ‘tank’ of 18k white gold and adorned with 2.63 carats of diamonds.
Cushion Cut Diamond Square Disc ring by Deborah Cadby
What struck me about this minimalistic ring is the use of materials. A modest 1.28 carat cushion-cut diamond is set in a solid platinum disc that’s been given a matte, earthy texture quite in contrast to the traditional vision of platinum as a lustrous white metal. Deborah Cadby’s ring is neither antique nor contemporary… in fact, it feels like it’s in a whole category of its own, which is why it caught my eye.
‘Auriga’ brooch by Tom Rucker
The platinum and gold latticework in this brooch is really quite remarkable, so much so that it appears strung like a geometric spider’s web or a mesh within a teardrop of smooth platinum. At the top of this brooch is a 2.21 carat tanzanite and, pooling at the bottom are 22 natural fancy vivid yellow diamonds with a combined weight of 0.35 carats. Tom Rucker is a goldsmith who embraces sophisticated technologies in his work and the results are miniature works of engineering.
Slipper Orchid brooch by Fred Rich
Jewellery as art is an important theme in my work and is one of the driving forces behind everything I do. I was immediately taken with this Slipper Orchid brooch by Fred Rich that combines 18k yellow gold and enamel with a deep yellow-orange zircon centre stone. Art enamelling is one of the skills that Fred Rich is particularly well-known for and, if you look closely, you can see the impeccable detail on the green leaf that provides the depth and backdrop of this work.
International Introducing: Henry Dakak Jr. from Lebanon
Henry Dakak Jr. is a Lebanese designer whose passion and talent for crafting furniture has infused a secondary jewellery-making skill set. His pieces are meaningful and full of stories that blend the past, present and future in interesting ways. Since 2015, Henry has demonstrated a clear and consistent DNA in his works, including a special appreciation for yellow gold and an evolving use of coloured gemstones that keeps us all guessing what he might do next! His pieces have texture, dimension and volume in a way that might be called ‘architectural’ by those who aren’t familiar with his background in furniture-making. Overall, Henry Dakak Jr. is a designer whose work I follow intently and whose talents are only blossoming and improving with time. I hope others will consider his work with the same appreciation that I do.