Felix Bischof Selects
Journalist and luxury expert Felix Bischof has a depth of knowledge which spans both the fashion and art industries. As editor of THE WEEK Fashion and THE WEEK Time & Jewels, Bischof is used to spotting a newsworthy story. With a finger constantly on the pulse, he holds an authoritative voice on the latest in contemporary arts, culture and design, making him the perfect fit for calling out the most exciting makers working today.
See his selection of Goldsmiths’ Fair 2021 makers below.
‘Bugle’ necklace by Samuel Waterhouse
“It’s a traditional Korean technique which involves the fusing of a fine gold foil to fine silver,” Samuel Waterhouse tells me of Keum-boo, an ancient way to create silver-gilt, which has been perfected for many centuries, and even millennia. Long-established, most examples of Keum-boo feature 24 carat gold foil, but Waterhouse – who is self-taught and also finishes larger items including a group of bowls – has developed his own, painterly approach. “I have adapted this technique by fusing different carats and therefore different colours of gold in the same way,” he says. A necklace is strung from tactile, mosaic-like beads, each of which Waterhouse crafts by hand at his Sheffield atelier, hand-rolling and hammering oxidised sterling silver, oxidised fine silver and 24 carat gold.
Baroque pearl safety pin brooch by Polly Gasston
Reframing the work of goldsmiths active in the Ancient Near East, Polly Gasston has made 22 carat gold her signature material. Here, a simple safety pin is shaped from the alloy; the everyday item is upgraded further by the addition of a generously-shaped baroque pearl.
Romanesque ring by Sian Evans
Composed of recycled gold, Sian Evan’s Romanesque ring is shaped using the technique of sand casting, a process that sees precious alloys ladled into a sand mould once heated and liquefied. In direct contact with the gold, the sand leaves a tactile impression which Evans places at the centre of her take on traditional ring shapes such as this signet-style gem.
Hand knitted 18ct gold pearl cluster necklace by Teri Howes
Like a rare – and very much scaled-down – fantastical fishing net, Teri Howes necklace is made from 18 carat gold and enlaces clusters of pale white freshwater pearls. French Knitting lies at the heart of her tubular structures. She first picked up the craft quite a few years before setting up her eponymous practice at London’s Cockpit Arts Studios in Holborn. “It’s a technique I learned in childhood and children still make today with a wooden bobbin with nails and a central round hole,” she says. But Howes’ interpretation is decidedly more luxurious: she works with filamental gold instead of woollen yarn. “Slowly, the tubular knit emerges from the base of the bobbin in one continuous strand,” she explains. To add pearls, Howes threads her 18 carat threads with the dinky gem, which are then placed between stitches and trapped in the weave.