18 carat yellow gold, square formed into a single ripple effect, 15 platinum strips infused into the gold.
Mina’s unique technique, which she calls “fusion inlay”, involves cutting out patterns in platinum gauze or mesh (used industrially as a catalyst in making fertiliser and controlling pollution) and fusing it to gold. Her work is immediately recognisable through its attention to surface pattern and to form. On this brooch, waves of platinum glint within textured, rippling gold to create an illusion of softness and simplicity. Mina works directly into the metals, creating what Marina Vaizey describes as “the most delicate of textures, faintly impressed gauzy shadows of platinum on gold”. She won the Jerwood Applied Arts Prize: Jewellery in 2000 for her impressive skill in “subverting and taking precious metal techniques to the extreme”. Of her own work, she says: “My art is in gold. Other artists may choose stone or paint, textile or clay, but if I let my imagination run free with gold I find the possibilities are limitless… with an allure that is carried down from antiquity in the collective subconscious.”
Jacqueline Mina is the subject of one of the ‘Women and Jewellery: A Contemporary Perspective’ series of short films by curator and collector Amanda Game. The films celebrate the role of some remarkable women in designing, making, collecting and curating exceptional modern jewellery.
In this short film Amanda discusses brooches in her own collection with Dr Dora Thornton, Curator of the Goldsmiths’ Company collection.