Emmeline Hastings

‘Amaru’ brooch

2019

Oxidised sterling and argentium silver, 18 carat rose gold, 18 carat yellow gold and platinum, acrylic with stainless steel pin. Carved acrylic base embedded with individually applied precious metal elements.  

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The ‘Amaru’ brooch was commissioned through the Company’s Contemporary Craft Committee, reflecting admiration for the work Hastings displayed at the Goldsmiths’ Fair in 2018. The name, drawn from Inca mythology, refers to an underwater serpent which can move between worlds; a creature that is perfectly evoked through the shining scales embedded into the acrylic base of the brooch. The scales are made from platinum, oxidised argentium silver and two shades of gold so as to graduate the colour over the surface of the brooch. They almost seem to stir as light moves over them, illustrating, in Emmeline’s words, how “Natural pattern, texture and a sense of ‘aliveness’ has always been intrinsic to my jewellery”. The commission brief played to this quality in demanding an undulating surface for the brooch, enabling Emmeline to develop her signature technique into something more kinetic and dramatic. An undulating brooch made in the same technique won the 2020 Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council Silver Award for Fashion Jewellery.

Emmeline Hastings features in the ‘Women and Jewellery: A Contemporary Perspective’ series of short films by curator and collector Amanda Game. The films celebrate the role of some remarkable women in designing, making, collecting and curating exceptional modern jewellery.

In this short film Amanda discusses brooches in her own collection with Dr Dora Thornton, Curator of the Goldsmiths’ Company collection.

The creation of patterns and the build-up of individual elements is similarly significant to the work of early-career maker Caitlin Hegney, who has produced a series of brooches for the Goldsmiths’ Centre’s Shine 2020.