Elizabeth Gage (b. 1937)

'AGINCOURT' RING

1984

18ct gold set with four tourmalines and four panels of eleven rubies of various sizes

“My first ring was set with amethysts and peridots. I wanted it to look like a modern drum, but when I finished it resembled a Persian carpet. I called it my Agincourt ring.”

Elizabeth Gage’s iconic Agincourt ring is designed and articulated with such precision that the individual elements, rigid 18 carat gold, tourmalines and rubies, are combined in a jewel which is invitingly soft and flexible. Bold yet wearable, full of controlled colour and confidence, the design is distinctively recognisable. Gage has been a major figure in contemporary jewellery since the 1970s. Born in London, she emigrated to New York in 1941. A long childhood illness meant she spent a lot of time reading and developed a love of history as a result; historical influences and wide-ranging cultural references are a strong feature of her glamorous, colourful jewels. Gage came from an artistic family and studied at Chelsea School of Art and the Sir John Cass College in the 1960s before setting up a successful studio in London in 1979. She began making Agincourt rings in the late 1960s and has experimented with variations on the design ever since; in 1972, a diamond-set version won the De Beers International Diamond Award and the Company purchased this example in 1985.

A similar piece is in the Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) collections.

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