Andrew Grima

Brooch

1964

Platinum wire network curved into a wave design, set with 125 baguette diamonds of different lengths set at right angles to one another. 

This brooch was not only the De Beers Diamonds Competition International winner in New York in 1964; it also won the Duke of Edinburgh Prize for Elegant Design in 1966 in a group with Grima’s crystallised agate brooch. It is unmarked, but proudly stamped GRIMA underneath. The supple sense of flex and movement in the design uses diamonds in a novel way. Jean Ghika, Jewellery Director at Bonham’s remarked of Grima: “He had the royal warrant, so he was very much a jeweller for the establishment, but at the same time he managed to straddle the fashion world, with film and pop stars wearing his work.” Graham Hughes wrote in Grima’s obituary: “When I was art director at Goldsmiths’ Hall, I was responsible for purchasing and commissioning new jewels and silver to complement the ancestral collections of our medieval guild, the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths. We ended up with more pieces by Grima than by any other living craftsman, an achievement which tells its own story.”