Andrew Grima (1921–2007)

RINGS

1961; 1972; 1965

18ct gold, citirine; 18ct gold wire, coral, diamond; 18ct gold, diamonds

‘Rock Revival 1971’ was one of four collections of jewellery launched in the 1970s by Andrew Grima. As the name suggests, the emphasis was on unpolished semi-precious stones, often asymmetrical or misshapen, cradled in gold which responds to their natural form. Cufflinks were made using sliced or carved stones, set off by textured gold mounts. Here, a lump of coral has been encircled in hammer-textured wires, set at the apex with a single diamond. Grima’s jewellery is never cold and is often witty; this cocktail ring is the perfect conversation piece.

Though self-taught, Grima became one of the world’s leading artist jewellers with a royal, international clientele for his exquisite, one-off pieces. He served with the Royal Engineers in Burma in World War II, honing his mechanical engineering skills in improvising repairs to his jeep. In 1946, he briefly worked in his father-in-law’s jewellery firm, H.J. Company Ltd, then sold the business to set up on his own, staying on as lead designer. The firm executed the prize-winning designs by painters and sculptors for the 1961 exhibition at Goldsmiths’ Hall. Grima also exhibited 5 pieces he had designed for H.J. and Company at the show, including a ring in textured 18 carat gold set with a cabochon citrine. For further details of his career see the link on the ‘Crocodile’ ring below.

Below:
Ring, 1971
18 carat gold wire, coral, diamond

Below:
Ring, designed by Andrew Grima and made by Michael Gosschalk, 1961
18 carat gold, set with an oval citrine
This ring was included in the ‘International Exhibition of Modern Jewellery 1890–1961’